The story tells that during the 16th Century, the Spaniards entered the Amazonian territory and found a great and well-organized indigenous civilization with an approximate population of 3000 inhabitants known by the name of “Cofa Na’esu A’i”. Its settlers are still known as “Cofanes”, and they are considered the guardians and only administrators of the most biologically diverse spot on Earth: the Cofán Bermejo Ecological Reserve, an Ecuadorian territory of more than 55.000 hectares located in the North border of the Sucumbios Province.
Perhaps the most impressive fact about this place is that the Bermejo Forest, which is located inside the reserve covering only a 3% of its territory, is the home of an approximate of 700 bird species; 3000 woody plants and at least 20 mammal species considered to be endangered according to a biological inventory made by the Chicago Field Museum.
Getting to this reserve is an adventure only for those with adventurous spirits and a good shape. The only way to access the place is by taking the Inter-oceanic Lago Agrio – Tulcán Highway, a branch from the Amazonian Highway. When arriving to Cascales, which is 1 hour away from Lago Agrio, there is a small way leading to the Shuar community known as Taruka. After that, the adventure begins: to get to the reserve, visitors will have to walk for 6-8 hours in the region of the San Miguel and Bermejos rivers. It is highly recommended to take good camping equipment with you and to be accompanied by one of the reserve’s forest rangers.
The effort that such a long walk implies is widely compensated when you arrive to this green paradise. Its five pathways created and used by the local indigenous communities will take you through winding tracks, steep slopes, fast-flowing rivers, giant trees and precipices, always accompanied by an astonishing fauna and a mix of Andean and Amazonian flora. This is the Amazonian experience at its best!
To live in the jungle, one must be in good shape physically and mentally. The effort you made to get there, the pure nature of the virgin jungle and the open space survival rules you’ll put into practice will make together a great memory. Going to Cofán Bermejo is certainly a demanding but unforgettable adventure.
Photo: Jade Rivera Rossi
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